Scottish Mountaineering Blog

This is our last week of courses in Scotland for this year, we have an Introductory course on this week and then we all head home next Friday. It’s generally been a mild winter with some frustrating weather weeks, there are some venues we haven’t even used due to poor conditions. All our clients have been fantastic(as always) we’ve had some great fun delivering the programme this year, even when we have had to walk for hours to find good snow.

I’ve just selected some images that give a flavor of our year!

Take care one and all, Ed

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Tired legs were evident this morning in the soft luxury of the comfy chairs in the Ballachullish Hotel’s lounge. Everyone was still keen so Alex and I put three choices in front of the team and they picked the ropework option, a good choice as they are all hoping to get out into the hills for themselves in winter and this is where a rope can come in handy but only if you know how to use it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The hotel was the setting for just over an hour this morning as we did not think that knot tying in the forecasted blizzards constituted an positive learning environment. Alex led the session and we had all the intro gear out; harnesses, ropes, knots, slings and carabiners. The coffee chairs made good pretend rock spikes but we did notice they tended to wobble if you lent on them to hard, the plan was to use water molecules later in the day and initially I am not sure if our guys fancied their luck with the upholstered option.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once rucsacs were packed we headed up into the Lost Valley, an area steeped in local history but with Glaswegian Oli in the group I felt under pressure to make sure I got all my facts right. We practised some practical on the move navigation and introduced using timing s a method of assessing how far you have travelled. Mind you this did depend on who was out front and how fast they were walking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was trauma for yours truly as my walking pole was swept down the river during the river crossing, still the team got across safely so that was the main thing. After our little paddle it was into the spell binding beauty of the Lost Valley which was all white and elicited lots of noises of appreciation and wonder from our five big roughty, toughty male clients, great to see the aesthetics of the winter mountains being enjoyed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a setting a cracking pace we ended up in the back of the corrie and scrambling over the fresh snow-covered rocks onto the older harder snow fields. Crampons and harness were donned and after a very enthusiastic steep cutting session (boys do like swinging ice axes around and cutting stuff) we decided it was time to get the rope out and show how you can completely anchor yourself to the mountain using crushed snowflakes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The promised blizzards arrived which made sitting in a bucket seat a bit like going through a car wash in an open top bus. Goggles helped with this and it dd not put off our budding winter mountaineers, they were still applying themselves fully to the tasks set them and excavating the required holes in the snow. (we did threaten to accuse them to digging like girls if they did not put their backs into it, ah a wonderfully thing testosterone).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately we had burnt time this morning with the indoor rope session and after constructing their belays, practising climbing calls and how to safe guard their rope brother in ascent and descent we had to head down. This can be the most stressful part of the day for us instructors as the consequences of a slip may be serious, today that was definitely the case but we took our time and this teams footwork is exemplary so required very little tweaking. A slick retreat out of the corrie, a sneaky traverse around the large snow bridge over the river and after an alternative river crossing we were down at the bus a wee bit late but all agreed it was worth it. Once back at base with tea and biscuits the gents seemed very happy that they had chosen this option for the day.

A truly Scottish Mountaineering day out for the intro team today. We had everything, snow, ice, sleet, rain and wind (quite a bit of wind). It did not put off this hardy bunch, they coped admirably with the sweaty and steep approach up through the middle of the three sisters of Glencoe and we even over took  team or two on the way in.

In addition to perspiring considerably on the way in there was time to look at winter navigation and people were having a really good go at contour interpretation (the key for navigation in snow), once happy with where we were progress continued steadily as we headed up into the main corrie. There was snow and ice under foot but after yesterdays movement coaching this proved no problem for this capable crew.

Crampons were soon needed and Max and I were pleasantly surprised with the confidence and capability of the team as we headed up into steeper ground, our job was made easier by the able assistance of Pasang and Lena who were able to dish out top tips and handy hints as they were needed.

As height was gained so was the interest and difficulty. A big part of today was the decision making process and Max involved the whole team in risk assessments of slopes and route choice through trickier sections. We spent a fair bit of time explaining about trying to have an escape plan and the importance of not over committing yourself when still a fledgling mountaineer, the guys lapped up all the knowledge and advice and were making very sound and rational decision about whether to continue up and by what route.

The weather got wilder but the team just seemed to get keener, they were mad for it! Oli had to be reined in as his high fitness levels and enthusiasm would have left all the JG instructors behind. Pasang again impressed everyone with his quiet expertise, he seemed to glide effortlessly up any terrain despite the fact that this was his first Scottish peak. A bit small compared to Everest but apparently we were out in winder conditions than the South Col (this went down very well with the team).

We started up a short but very definite grade 1 slope, it was christened Eclipse Gully by the team, after a bit of step cutting Max and I had the entry into the gully sorted then the team all adopted daggering as a good safe and secure way to ascend the top section. There might have been a few wide eyes and tired calf muscles but the ridge was gained in no time at all.

The main ridge proved to be windy and wild, the freezing level had risen as expected and rather than sleat we were now in stinging rain. All the kit got a thorough testing as did the clients! Seb, Seb II and Oli kept looking at me with big grins on their faces saying this was exactly what they wanted and it was fantastic, strange boys. Emma got very excited towards the end of the ascent as it finally looked like she was going to stand on top of her first Scottish mountain. She had tried last year but it had coincided with 120mph winds through out the week and we had not managed it. Great that she was back for more and managing so well with what for her were light gentle breezes.

Always wanting to provide the best day we can Max spotted an interesting top gully with a chockstone in it, in deeper snow conditions you don’t see it but today it was too tempting and after passing rucsacs up our team of mountaineers turned into cavers and squirmed through onto the summit slopes. Emma led the way triumphantly to the top and after a very brief photo call we headed down the west ridge into the shelter of the corrie and back to the van. The unanimous decision was that it was a fantastic day out with fun, excitement, challenge, learning and spectacular scenery (when we could see it). Now how do we top that tomorrow? Have to wait and see, watch this space for the next exciting instalment.

They say a picture paints a thousand words, these were taken yesterday on the first day of a Winter Mountaineering course. I even had my sunglasses on for an hour or so !

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What a difference a weekend can make, fresh snow down to 600 meters, blue skies, sunshine and no winds. We did not know what to do with ourselves, it was like kids at Christmas. This weeks Intro had a fantastic start to their five days of mountaineering.

After getting to know one and other, and the contents of Alex’s rucsac, we had the customary stop at the gear shop to allow people to refine the odd item that was maybe not quite up to the rigors of the Scottish highlands. A quick trip in the van saw us safely inside the gondola which was thankfully running today, not sure I could have faced walking up under it again. So in a matter of minutes our very keen team was standing in the snow and the sunshine getting the low down on how to carry and use an ice axe.

A swift journey across the snow-covered and now frozen bog gave us the chance to talk a bit about snow and look at the different technique needed for walking in big boots. We were excited to have been joined by Pasang  who’s normal working environment is the Himalayas, Scotland must seem a bit tame when you have stood on top of Everest 8 times but it does mean you know all there is to know about moving over snowy ground efficiently and our guys were soon adopting a good steady pace.

After lots of movement coaching it was down to the emergency procedures, what do you do when it all goes wrong? I think we failed to impress on everyone the seriousness of learning this skill as most people found it far too much fun! There was lots of laughter and snow balls (penalty clauses for poor technique), after a surprisingly short period of time however we were seeing excellent execution of the self arrest and literaly as well as figuratively flew head first through the rest of the session.

Moving onto crampons there was more laughter; this was due to the size of thermos flask Pasang produced out of his rucsac, he had been lent it by another JG instructor and it was the size of oxygen bottle! No problem for this Sherpa carrying around something that size and it did mean he was able to offer everyone, and I mean everyone, in the group coffee. The spikes proved to be a big hit with the whole team and they were happily climbing up and down steeper slopes and managing to skip across rocks and ice with equal confidence. A great first day and it will hopefully lead to a big day out tomorrow.

Wednesday and there were some tired legs in the morning meeting today. With the usual Jagged Globe luxury of low client to instructor ratio we were able to put a couple of options on the table, this allowed us to keep the super fit racing snakes happy (minus Pete today but gaining Frances) by giving them the chance to go for a good romp around Stob Corrie Lochan. The rest of the team requested a technical day on some steeper snow, preferably with a shorter walk in! Although we try not to visit the same venue in a week a return to Anoach Mor was the best option, but this time via the gondola.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So they might not have felt quite so righteous on arrival at the top station but certainly less sweaty and tired, just what was needed. Instead of testing the legs muscles it was time to tax the brain power by trying to figure out navigational timings for heading up and around the ridge. After much studying of the map and counting of fingers, (good job we have big boots on else I think the socks might have come off), it was decided that 18 minutes was required. Everyone agreed this was a big improvement on Mondays hour and forty approach time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once in the snow Mark and I decided on a quick refresher of Mondays skills to see how much had been remembered. There was no problem with moving around in big boots now, in fact everyone seemed to be kicking in and using their feet much more efficiently, great. A thorough sliding session became the focus of the morning as we had only really covered the basics on Monday. We were ruthless! For these techniques to work they have to be practised extensively to the point where they are instinctive and as perfect as possible. Things started a bit ragged but soon sharpened up and by the end we were seeing some really good examples.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a normally unheard of lunch break (dont tell Ed we had one) it was back to it, emergency shelters and scenarios where examined and discussed then it was time for the harnesses and ropes. Kiting up and tying in went really well with everyone being much slicker than the previous couple of days, as a result we had three intrepid climbers heading up the slope armed with just their crampons, ice axe and rope. With some time and a great deal of effort very effective snow anchors can be dug into slopes and the rest of the day was spent looking at using these on the steep ground to safe guard someone in ascent and decent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a few goes out front leading and a few goes seating in the bucket seat getting a bit chilly we decided it was time to think about heading down. As we were a fair way up the steeper ground a abseil retreat was chosen which was a first for many in the team. It takes a bit of courage to lean back on a rope that is just slung around a snow bollard (effectively just water molecules) but even those who were new to this type of descent managed really well and they were then tasked with cutting their own bollard and sorting the rope for the last stage of the trip down. All that remained was the short stroll back just in time to catch the last gondola home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We always say on these courses there is no such thing as a silly question, however, I have never been asked by a client ‘where is my ice axe?’ after they have just buried it in the snow in front of them as an anchor. I shall not of course name names so as to protect the dignity of the person or persons involved!

The weather was still warm as we headed in to climb Curved Ridge today. A grade III in winter but today a Moderate rock climb. It is however one of the best routes of it’s kind in Scotland, Simon and Bala led several sections, placing anchors and building belays where possible. The route was dry and we saw some other folk but not many, a bit of misty navagation from the top and we were back down by 4pm. A grand day out.

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