Scottish Mountaineering Blog

It has to be said that the rest of the week was not particularly Scottish, the sun shone and we had light winds, no sign of the gales from earlier in the week. Weather like this can not be squandered so on Wednesday we went up Ben Nevis.

So a mass ascent of Ledge Route Grade II was decided upon. Else where in the UK winter routes get a maximum of three stars for quality, here in Scotland however they are bigger and better and the really special ones get four stars. Our objective for the day was one of these super classic mountaineering routes, combine the fantastic route with blue skies, light winds and sociable company and a four star day out was as good as guaranteed.

After a steady plod in we were soon scampering up the exposed but straightforward lower pitches and in no time at all the more mixed, rocky ground of the upper section of the route stretched out above us and best of all it was bathed in sunshine.

Mark Hendry and his team were flying up and they and Roger Meer’s team even managed to bag the summit of Britain’s highest mountain. The rest of us were having a bit too much fun in the sun and we sauntered up enjoying the superb views. After refueling on the plateau we headed down as the sun dipped behind the mountains a beautiful finish to a perfect day, definitely a four star experience.

Tuesday and it was time to technical and start venturing onto some steeper ground. The winds were due to still be very strong so we decided on Stob Corrie Nan Lochan in Glencoe as it would provide some shelter from the wind.

Once the sweaty walk in was dealt with the various teams split up, Andy Chapman took Rob and Rachael onto Forked gully a grade I/II, Roger was putting Matt and Amy through their ropework skills, Mark with Byron and Dominic joined me and the boys Darren, Steve, Russ and Malon in an ascent of Broad gully grade I.

Once in the base of the gully and feeling secure in some big snow ledges cut into the slope we got the ropes out, tied in then looked at how you go about safe guarding yourself on a snow slope with nothing but the rope and an ice axe. OK, there might be a carabiner and a sling involved but it is all attached to a bunch of crushed snow flakes when you really consider it.

Manol burying his axe with Mark.                            Byron securely attached to the slope.

So with the basic techniques being practised the teams lead their own way up the slope leap frogging each others belays so the digging of belays, a very activity in the bullet hard snow, was shared out and everyone got a go. As we gained height and the rope work and terrain became familiar we started to introduce using rock anchors, quicker and more energy efficient. However not always there so you need to be able to use the snow pack if that’s all you have.

The top of the gully was soon gained and up there we met our other teams, there was a break out of summit fever and the final slopes were tackled to put us on the top, it was the first Scottish mountain for most and the effort was rewarded with fantastic views.

A fantastic second day with consolidation of movement skills and lots of time spent with ropes and knots and climbing systems. With everyone feeling more confident we will have to see what the rest of the week brings.

While the rest of the UK suffers in freezing conditions and massive snow falls, the West Coast of Scotland has 12 hours of slight thaw and snow showers. We’ve had cold and clear weather all this week so some extra snow with a thaw/ freeze cycle is exactly what we need.

All of our clients from this week have departed and hopefully all got thier varoius flights and transfers to far away places, we have had a top week and are looking forward to meeting some new faces as well as some well known faces on Sunday evening when we start again.

Most of the staff are having a day off today, some of us are going out tomorrow when the freezing level comes down again, winter climbing at it’s best. Below are some images from across the courses this week. Ed

Max and I (Ed) felt it was time this week for a day of classic winter climbs. We went into Coire Nan Lochain to climb Twisting Gully (III,4) and SC Gully (III,4) both routes get 3 stars for quality and both feature in the famous ‘Cold Climbs’ coffee table book.

Both routes were in top condtion and will last out for some time given the hard Neve we have around at the moment.

Great conditions for the snow and ice climbing course. Tower Scoop (III) on Tuesday and then Anoach Mor for the first time this season yesterday. Tunnel Vision (III) and the all time classic Left Twin (III,4) which is very steep at the moment.

Monday and the Scottish mountains were flexing their not inconsiderable muscles. Strong to gale force winds were forecasted for the West Highlands and they certainly arrived with a-vengeance to test the mettle of this weeks new Mountaineering hopefuls. After the meet and greet last night it was straight into kit check, our UIAGM Guide Roger Meer looked a bit startled when one of the clients asked if he would checks his pants! They had only just been introduced. Once the laughter had finished it was established that this was northern speak for trousers and a full inspection was carried out to ensure that these waterproof pants were going to be up to the rigours of the course. This went for all the kit and we did a thorough check and doled out bucket loads of advice on what to wear, carry and even what order to put it in rucksack.

All smiles before the steep bit!

The importance of being organised and investing in good quality equipment was further reinforced by our winter director Ed Chard as he ran through further information in his after dinner lecture. So our budding climbers were packed off to bed with harnesses, crampons, helmets and a large list of things to get ready before we even left the hotel.

Matt donning his waterproof pants!

Last nights preparation allowed one or two people to discover weaknesses in their protective clothing so we had a quick stop at the gear shops on our way to Anoach Mor to address the shortfalls. On a day like today all your kit needs to be robust and well-fitting and this became very apparent even in the car park as people noticed the very cold temperatures and strong wind. Straight away we had to have a change in plan as our shortcut up the hill, the Nevis Range Gondola, was not running due to the winds.

The team finding their feet on the snow.

With surprisingly little faffing the team had striped down a layer or two as a sweaty
walk up through the forest was now needed to access the higher mountain. Fit bunch, JG instructor Mark Hendry set a good steady pace up the track and we were in the snow in no time at all. The wind made its presence felt with the gain in height, initially  blowing a steady 30 mph things picked up to closer to 40 mph and people were getting a bit of a buffeting but everyone was coping well.

Darren going for his mountain gloves.

After introducing the basics about snowpack and avalanche awareness we strolled around to the East face and properly got stuck into the key skill that needs to be the corner stone for any mountaineer…sound footwork. After a thorough refresh on movement in snow we split down into smaller teams to facilitate better coaching in the challenging conditions, journeys up into the steeper ground were made looking at utilising the ice axe both to aid movement and to stop a trip becoming a slide.

Rob testing Byron's self belay.

As people became happier on the more exposed ground we began to cover terrain more rapidly, self arrest was practised and we discovered all Goretex is not the same and some slides a lot faster than others. Malon almost did not need to have a go at the arresting as he did not move at all despite throwing himself don the slope with admirable enthusiasm, what ever his outer shell was we reckon you could market it as self stopping shell, could catch on.

Darren, Malon and Byron entering the steeper ground.

Crampons and harnesses were donned and some of the team even managed to squeeze in a abseil of a snow bollard, impressive given our delayed start and unplanned walk this morning. A first for me was having to walk up and down under the gondola in a day, occasionally we have to stroll down and even more rarely do we have to walk up but to have had to do both! Al I can say is the team coped really well with the wild weather and thoroughly deserved their tea and cake at the end of the day.

Rob and Byron admiring the views.

Good weather for climbing this week, sub zero temps, not much new snow and a solid base. The first day of a climbing course today saw us going to Stob Coire Nan Lochain in Glencoe. 2 hours of walking and we saw the cliffs looking white and looking good.

It was our first day so we went for Twisting Gully (III) and NC Gully (II/ III) with a strong wind at the top ot felt ‘ proper Scottish’.

Off to Ben Nevis tomorrow !

Sam Leary reports on a day’s private guiding…

Gareth and I had a grand day out in Corrie nan Lochan today. He had booked on for private guiding and some winter climbing after getting the snow and ice bug from a JG alpine course last year. As ever the forecast dictated our objectives and we bypassed the normal lead in as we were climbing 1 to 1 and Monday looked like being the best of Gareth’s 3 days. His Alpine experience allowed me to strap him straight onto a route, the lack of rope knowledge was cancelled out by his sound footwork and cramponing (Mac obviously did a good job with him in the alps). Thrown in at the deep end but as you would expect from someone training to be a TA marine he definitely swam not sank, organised and slick with his personal management we were in danger of being on our chosen route first and the knee deep fresh snow was not going to make getting there pleasant. Enter the tactical faff moment, this was genuine as we had a bit of fun trying to uncoil the rope which was doing its best to resemble a rattlesnakes tea party. By the time we had dealt with the offending article another team was blazing a nice trail to the base of Dorsal Arete, phew close one!

Gareth was not fazed by the Scottish weather nor intimidated by the spectacular rock architecture of the corrie and we were soon tied on heading up onto the route. Despite not having done much rope work before the marine took to it like a duck to water. Tying in and belaying posed no problems and he had adjusting clove hitches sorted on the first go. Using two ice axes was another first for him but he was soon swinging away happily and I was struggling to take the rope in fast enough.

There was lots of new skills to be learned and mastered today but by the third pitch we were moving really well with change overs at belays all going very smoothly. In no time at all we were hanging out at the base of the Dorsal fin itself, I gave the options of the slightly easier traverse left or the more spectacular and harder pitch over the fin itself. Always up for a challenge Gareth opted for the more exciting choice and over the fin we went. It proved to be more entertaining than normal due to the snow conditions but after dangling footless from his ice axes Gareth managed to sort his feet out and finish in fine style.

Having never climbed in Scotland Gareth elected to go up to the summit to bag his first munro height UK mountain (unfortunately it’s not in the table as its too close to Bidean). After doing most of the route in the mist our efforts were rewarded as the clouds started to part and fantastic views appeared, the icing on the cake.